ASTM Standards: Guide for Leather in Footwear & Apparel

Introduction

ASTM standards in the leather industry are essential to maintaining quality. Testing follows ASTM standards. This is important to make sure leather products last and work well. Many educators and manufacturers use standardized tests to check various properties of leather. These tests evaluate physical strength, chemical composition, colorfastness, and resistance to environmental factors. ASTM standards are vital for clothing, shoes, upholstery, and wet blue leather items. This article gives an overview of important ASTM standards for leather testing. It also shares tips on how to evaluate leather quality. When manufacturers follow these standards, they meet industry expectations. This helps them create better quality products.

1 ASTM Standards for Apparel

D6012-03(2021) Test Method for Leather’s Resistance to Color Stain Transfer (Bleeding)

D1913- 00 (2023) Standard Test Method for Leather Wetting Resistance in Garments (Spray Test)

D5053-03(2023) Standard Test Method for Colorfastness of Crocking of Leather

D5552-10(2023) Standard Test Method for Resistance of Colored Leather to Bleeding

D6014-00(2023) Test Method for Dynamic Water Absorption of Leather Surfaces

D2821-24 Standard Test Method for Measuring Leather Stiffness Using a Torsional Wire Tool.

D2096-11 (2024) Standard Test Method for Colorfastness and Color Transfer in Leather Washing.

D6013-00(2024) Standard Test Method for Checking Leather Area Stability in Laundering

2 Physical properties

D1516-05(2021) Standard Test Method for Width of Leather

D1814- 70 (2021) Standard Test Method for Measuring the Thickness of Leather Units

D1815-00 (2021) Standard Test Method for Static Water Absorption of Vegetable-Tanned Leather

D2207-00(2021) Test for Leather Bursting Strength by Ball Method

D2209-00(2021) Standard Test Method for Tensile Strength of Leather

D2212-00(2021) Standard Test Method for Slit Tear Resistance of Leather

D2211-00 (2021) Standard Test Method for Elongation of Leather

D6183-00(2021) Standard Test Method for Tackiness of Finish on Leather

D2813-03(2021) Standard Practice for Sampling Leather for Physical and Chemical Tests

D2347-00 (2021) Standard Test Method for Measuring Area of Leather Test Specimens

D4908-89 Test Method for Tackiness of Finish on Leather (Withdrawn 1997)

D4925-89 Test Method for Flexibility and Adhesion of Finish on Leather (Withdrawn 1997)

D7255-22e1 Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Leather (Rotary Platform, Abraser Method)

D1610-18 (2023) Standard Practice for Conditioning Leather and Leather Products for Testing

D1813- 13 (2023) Standard Test Method for Measuring the Thickness of Leather Test Specimens

D4704-13(2023) Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength, Tongue Tear of Leather

D4705-18(2023) Standard Test Method for Stitch Tear Strength of Leather, Double Hole

D5052-18(2023) Standard Test Method for Permeability of Leather to Water Vapor

D6076-18(2023) Standard Test Method for Shrinkage Temperature of Leather

D6182-23 Standard Test Method for Flexibility and Adhesion of Finish on Leather

3 ASTM Standards for Footwear

D2214-02 Standard Test Method for Leather’s Thermal Conductivity Using Cenco-Fitch Apparatus (Withdrawn 2008)

D2346-21 Standard Test Method for Clear Density of Leather

D2210-21 Standard Test Method for Grain Crack and Extension of Leather by the Mullen Test

D2098-21 is the standard test for measuring how well shoe upper leather resists water. It uses the Dow Corning Leather Tester.

D2941-21 Standard Test Method for Measuring Break Pattern of Leather (Break Scale)

D6015-21 Standard Test Method for Static Water Absorption of Leather

D2099-14(2023) is the standard method to test how well shoe upper leather resists water. It uses the Maeser Water Penetration Tester.

D8041/D8041M-16(2023) Standard Test Method for Whole Boot Breathability (MVTR)

D7340-07 (2023) Standard Practice for Thermal Conductivity of Leather

D2322-24 Standard Test Method for Resistance of Shoe Upper Leather to Artificial Perspiration

4 Chemical Analysis

D4653-87(2020) Standard Test Method for Total Chlorides in Leather

D4907-10(2020) Standard Test Method for Nitrocellulose in Finish on Leather

D4654-87(2020) Standard Test Method for Sulfate Basicity in Leather

D3913-03(2020)e1 Standard Test Method for Acidity in Basic Chromium Tanning Liquors

D6017-97(2020)e1 describes how to test magnesium sulfate, also known as Epsom salt, in leather.

D6019-20 Test Method for the Detection of Chromic Oxide in Basic Chromium Tanning Liquors (Ammonium Persulfate Method)

D6018-96(2012) Standard Test Method for Checking Lead Salts in Leather (Withdrawn 2017)

D3495-10(2023) Standard Test Method for Hexane Extraction of Leather

D4655-95(2023) provides standard test methods for sulfates in leather. It includes tests for total, neutral, and combined acid.

D4906-95(2023) Standard Method for Total Solids and Ash in Leather Finishing Materials.

D6016-17 (2023) Standard Test Method for Determination of Nitrogen, Water Extractable in Leather

D3898-93(2023) Standard Test Method for Chromic Oxide in Basic Chromium Tanning Liquors

D2617-24 Standard Test Method for Total Ash in Leather

D2810-24 Standard Test Method for pH of leather

D3790-24 Standard Test Method for Volatile Matter (Moisture) of Leather by Oven Drying

D5356-24 Standard Test Method for pH of chrome tanning solutions

D2868-24 tests for nitrogen content using the Kjeldahl method. It also checks for hidden substances in both wet-blue and wet-white leather.

D2807-25 Standard Test Method for Chromic Oxide in Leather (Perchloric Acid Oxidation)

D3897-18(2025) Standard Test Method for Calculation of Basicity of Chrome Tanning Liquors

5 Terminology

D1517-23 Standard Terminology Relating to Leather

6 Upholstery

D1912-00(2023) Standard Test Method for Cold-Crack Resistance of Upholstery Leather

D2097-03(2023) Standard Test Method for Flex Testing of Finish on Upholstery Leather

D2208-16(2023) Test Method for Leather’s Breaking Strength by the Grab Method

D6077-16(2023) Standard Test Method for Trapezoidal Tearing Strength of Leather

D6116-18(2023) Standard Test Method for Blocking

D8137-18(2023) Practice for Accelerated Aging of Leather

D7912-14(2023) Test Method for Heat Aging Resistance of Finish (Finish Stability)

7 Fats and Oils

ASTM Standards for Testing Sulfonated, Sulfated Oils, and Fat Liquors

These standards focus on the analysis and testing of sulfonated, sulfated oils, and fat liquors:

D8284-19: Tests total alkalinity in sulfated, sulfonated, and fat liquors

D5560-95(2018): Standard test method for finding neutral fatty matter in fats and oils

D5564-95(2018): Measures total ammonia in sulfonated or sulfated oils

D5562-95(2018): Tests acidity in ammonium or triethanolamine soaps. This includes free fatty acids or acid number.

D5348-95(2019): Measures moisture content in sulfonated and sulfated oils (distillation with xylene)

D5349-19: Measures moisture and volatile content in sulfonated and sulfated oils and fat liquors by oven method

D5353-95(2019): Measures total desulfated fatty matter

D5354-95(2020): Measures total active ingredients in sulfonated and sulfated oils

D5551-95(2019): Determines the cloud point of oil.

D5553-95(2019): Measures unsaponifiable, non-volatile matter in sulfated oils

D5351-93(2021): Organically combined sulfuric anhydride by extraction titration (Test Method B)

D5350-95(2019): Measures organically combined sulfuric anhydride using titration (Test Method A)

D5352-95(2019): Gravimetric analysis of ash from organically combined sulfuric anhydride

ASTM Standards for Physical Properties and Composition of Fats and Oils

These standards examine the physical features, makeup, and impurities in fats and oils. They cover fats used in fat liquors and stuffing compounds, too.

D5439-95(2019): Determines sediment in Moellón

D5347-19a: Determines the ash content of fats and oils.

D5556-19: Measures moisture and volatile matter in fats and oils. Manufacturers use this for fat liquors and softening compounds.

D5565-95(2011): Measures the solidification point of fatty acids (withdrawn in 2020)

D5566-95(2011): Measures inorganic salt in sulfated and sulfonated oils. (Withdrawn in 2020)

D5346-17(2021): This test measures the pour point of petroleum oil. Manufacturers use it in fat liquors and softening compounds.

D5440-17(2021): Determines the melting point of fats and oils.

D5554-15(2021): Determines the iodine value of fats and oils.

D5355-95(2021): Determines the specific gravity of oils and liquid fats.

D5555-95(2023): Measures free fatty acids in animal, marine, and vegetable fats and oils. This applies to fat liquors and stuffing compounds.

D5557-95(2023): Tests for insoluble impurities in fats and oils. This applies to fat liquors and stuffing compounds.

D5558-95(2023): Measures the saponification value of fats and oils.

D5559-95(2023): This standard measures acidity through free fatty acids or acid number. It does so without using ammonium or triethanolamine soaps. The focus is on sulfonated and sulfated oils.

8 Vegetable Leather

Standards for the analysis and testing of vegetable tanning materials and liquors

These standards show how to evaluate, make, prepare, and test vegetable-tanning materials and their solutions.

D6402-99(2020): Test Method for Soluble Solids and Insolubles in Vegetable-Tanning Extracts

D6401-99(2020): Test Method for Checking Non-Tannins and Tannins in Vegetable Tanning Extracts

D6404-99(2020): Standard Practice for Sampling Vegetable Materials Containing Tannins

D6405-99(2020): Standard Practice for Extracting Tannins from Raw and Spent Materials

D6406-99(2020): Standard Test Method for Analyzing Sugar in Vegetable Tanning Materials

D6407-99(2020): Standard Test Method for Analyzing Iron and Copper in Vegetable-Tanning Materials

D6408-99(2020): Standard Test Method for the Analysis of Tannery Liquors

D6409-99(2020): Standard Practice for Color Tests with Sheepskin Skiver

D6410-99(2020): Standard Test Method for Determining the Acidity of Vegetable Tanning Liquors

D4900-99(2020): Standard Test Method for Lignosulfonates (sulfite cellulose) in tanning extracts

D4901-99(2020): How to Prepare Liquid Vegetable Tannin Extract Solutions.

D4903-99(2020): Standard Test for Total Solids and Water in Vegetable Tanning Extracts

D4904-99(2020): Standard Practice for Cooling of Analytical Solutions

D4905-99(2020): Standard Practice for the Preparation of Solutions of Solid, Pasty, and Powdered Vegetable Tannin Extracts

D4902-99(2020): Standard Test Method for Evaporation and Drying of Analytical Solutions

D4899-99(2024): Standard Practice for the Analysis of Vegetable Tanning Materials—General

Standards for Leather Performance and Corrosion Testing

These standards focus on the physical properties and corrosion resistance of leather.

D8365-20: Standard Test Method for Corrosion of Metal Produced by Contact with Leather

D1611-12(2024): Standard Test Method for Leather Corrosion on Metal

D6075-13(2020): Standard Test Method for Cracking Resistance of Leather

D2213-00(2024): Standard Test Method for Compressibility of Leather

D2875-00(2024): Standard Test Method for Insoluble Ash of Vegetable-Tanned Leather

D2876-00(2024): Standard Test Method for Water-Soluble Matter of Vegetable-Tanned Leather

D4831-00(2024): Standard Test Method for Buckle Tear Strength of Leather

D4786-00(2024): Standard Test Method for Stitch Tear Strength, Single Hole

9 Wet Blue

D7967-21 Standard Test Method for Finding Chrome Content (as Cr2O3) in Wet Blue by Atomic Absorption or ICP.

D6657-16(2021) Standard Test Method for pH of Wet Blue and Wet White

D6714-16(2021) explains how to test for chromic oxide in ashed wet blue. We use perchloric acid oxidation to do this.

D6659-16(2021) details how to sample and prepare Wet Blue and Wet White for testing.

D7477-16(2021) is the standard test method. It checks the area stability of wet blue when submerged in boiling water.

D4576-16(2021) Standard Test Method for Mold Growth Resistance of Wet Blue and Wet White

D7584-16(2021) is the standard test method. It checks for fungal growth on wet blue and wet white surfaces in an environmental chamber.

D7674-14a(2021) Test Method for Hexane/Petroleum Ether Extract in Wet Blue and Wet White.

D7817-12(2021) Standard Test Method for the Enumeration of Yeast and Mold in Brine, Brine-Cured Hides, and Skins.

D7819-12(2021) is the standard method for counting yeast and mold on fresh, uncured hides and skins.

D8451-22 Standard Test Method for Calculation of Unfixed Chrome Concentration in Wet Blue

D7818-23 Standard Method for Counting Proteolytic Bacteria in Fresh (Uncured) Hides and Skins

D8042-18(2023) Test Method for Shrinkage Temperature of Wet Blue and Wet White

D7816-23 Standard Test Method for Counting Halophilic and Proteolytic Bacteria in:

• Raceway Brine
• Brine-Cured Hides
• Skins

D6656-24 is the standard test method for finding chromic oxide in wet blue. It uses perchloric acid oxidation.

D6716-24 Standard Test Method for Total Ash in Wet Blue or Wet White

D6715-13(2024) outlines how to sample and prepare fresh or salt-cured hides and skins. This process is for chemical and physical testing.

D7476-08(2024) Standard Test for Brine Saturation Value of Salted Hides and Skins.

D6658-24 Standard Test Method for Volatile Matter (Moisture) of Wet Blue by Oven-Drying

Conclusion

The leather industry is changing. Its testing standards, especially the ASTM standards, are evolving as well. This reflects the impact of new technology and market needs. These standards help manufacturers in several ways. They enhance product quality, meet environmental rules, and increase customer satisfaction. Following ASTM standards helps leather products meet global criteria. This boosts their credibility and makes them more competitive. Aligning with ASTM standards helps the industry thrive and stay sustainable. These testing methods are vital for ensuring the quality of leather products.